Hidden Gem on the Forgotten Coast

Every once in a while you have one of those days where everything just comes together. In this case, a magnificent golf course and a new friend. I had planned to drive the two and one half hours to Tallahassee to play the Fred Couples designed Southwood course, ranked #25 in "The Top Courses you can play in Florida" by Golf Magazine. However, golfers I met kept telling me, why don't you drive to Carrabelle, about 45 minutes east and play St. James Bay. Whoa! am I happy I took their advice. A great track.

I joined up with Don Scanlan (63) of Marriotts Cove, about an hour's drive south of Halifax, Nova Scotia. A retired financial advisor (hope his clients took his advice), it turned out we had a mutual friend in Larry Teetaert, whom I worked with at Parks for 30 years. Canada may be a big country, but it's a small world.

Don Scanlan on the 158-yard par 3, 11th

As the story goes, St. James Bay was developed by a Texas oil tycoon for his own playing pleasure. It was as if JR Ewing himself, had invited us to his private playground. We had the course to ourselves.

Ken blasts out of a bunker on #16 on route to a 'sandy'

St. James Bay was like no other course I have ever played. Built in a wetland and certified a Signature Sanctuary by Audubon International, the course is a maze of boardwalks to get over and around the swamps and gator ponds. It was like playing in a bird sanctuary with herons, egrets and cardinals at every turn. We played from the whites, which only measured 5439 yards, but don't let the length fool you; this was all target golf. You needed the precision of a surgeon. I managed to splash six balls, even though I played quite well. It was the most balls I can ever remember losing during a round.

For the record I shot 86 on nines of 39/47 with nine pars and one birdie. Thank you Don. Great day, see you on the 'Jimmy' next spring.

KP

She's as sweet as tupelo honey

With a wake-up temperature of +1C, it wasn't exactly a beach day. So we headed inland to the small community of Wewahitchka in search of Panhandle gold...tupelo honey. It didn't take us long to discover Smiley Apiaries.

Tupelo honey is produced from the White Tupelo tree that grows in the swampy terrain of the Apalachicola River Basin in Northwest Florida. Tupelo honey is world-famous for its distinctive flavour and because it does not crystallize like other honeys.

Ken & Bobbie with our Tupelo gold

We had a fascinating chat with the owner while his wife, we believe, filled bottles and packed boxes of the sweet stuff. For more information check their web site at www.FloridaTupeloHoney.com

It's also worth noting that Ulee's Gold (1997) starring Peter Fonda as a Florida beekeeper was filmed in the surrounding area. Peter picked up an Oscar nod for his performance, which some reviewers still feel is his best ever.

You can take all the tea in china 
Put it in a big brown bag for me 
Sail right around the seven oceans 
Drop it straight into the deep blue sea 
Shes as sweet as tupelo honey 
Shes an angel of the first degree 
Shes as sweet as tupelo honey 
Just like honey from the bee 
- Van Morrison

KP

Flounder Fishing on Florida's Forgotten Coast

Earlier in the trip I was invited out for a bit of fishin' by Clay Lewis. Clay (52) owns and operates CSB Rentals on Cape San Blas. He has kayaks and bikes to fit every budget and has over 25 years of knowledge and experience about the area. Call 770-289-8023. I rented a 'grannie' bike and it's a terrific way to explore the Cape.

Joining us on his pontoon boat were friends Gene (67) originally from Panama City and Hal Tarpley (28). Hal is a second generation owner and operator of Shore Thang Charters. This kid was a master, and if you love to fish, I would highly recommend checking him out if you're in the area. Go to www.shorethangfishing.com

Clay loads up the pontoon, Roxy looks on

(l-r) Clay, Gene, Roxy and Hal

To say we had a good outing would be an understatement. We were after Gulf Flounder. They make excellent table fare. Hal guided us to a sand bottomed area of St. Joseph Bay. There, they lie camouflaged in the sand waiting for prey, or my lure, to come near enough to strike. Hal gave us a quick lesson on bottom fishing with a jig and then told us to have at her. It did not take long before Gene had a couple of nice bites and we were away to the races. In the end we lost count, but came away with a dozen in the cooler of which, I'm proud to report, were two of mine.

Gulf Flounder on ice

We returned to Gene's place bay-side on Cape San Blas where Hal cleaned the flounder and Gene fired up his propane deep-fryer. What a feast! A huge thank you to Clay, Gene and Hal, a wonderful, wonderful day. I hope we can do it again next spring.

KP

Feeding Frenzy

Woke up this morning to this amazing scene.

Incoming!

The large white birds hitting the water like missiles are Northern Gannets. During their spring migration, they will follow the coastline of the Panhandle east, eventually crossing Florida and then follow the Atlantic coastline north to nesting islands like Bonaventure near Perce, Quebec. The gannet is the only northern member of the booby family. Along with the gannets were Common Loons, Brown Pelicans and an assortment of gulls and terns.

Cape San Blas Air Force

Not sure what all these expert fishers were catching. Someone on the beach suggested mullet. As good a guess as any...I guess.

KP

Back on the Links

I slipped out for a quick nine this afternoon. I really should give it up. But a birdie 3 on the 367 yard par 4 - 17th will keep me coming back.

Brossard comes out of his shoes on #16

Today, I joined Dave Brossard and Dave Brewer for the back nine at St. Joe. Brossard, 63 is an insurance adjuster and lives in northern Michigan. Brewer, also 63 is retired after spending the last 26 years of his career in the food industry in Santa Fe, New Mexico. His story on how he came to be in Cape San Blas reminded me of those old Remington razor commercials. Every spring break he would bring his family to the Cape. One year, he's standing on the beach in front of the place he was renting and as he tells it, "I was so impressed, I bought the place". Gotta love Americans and their chutzpah to seize an opportunity.

Oh-oh, that's left. (Brewer on #16)

Thanks for the game gentlemen, it was a great afternoon...and Dave, take it back, low and slow.

KP

Boiled P-Nuts

Today, we decided to take a quick trip to Panama City Beach to see the sights. Along the way we pulled into a roadside peanut stand. I was curious. What are boiled peanuts? Well, duh, they are peanuts that are boiled. Raw or 'green' peanuts in the shell are used and boiled in salt water. Let's just say, the resulting very soft peanuts are an acquired taste.

The author is not quite sure what he's getting himself in to

Boiled peanuts are the official snack food of South Carolina and apparently are good for you.

$3.00/cup

KP

Lighthouses and Stingrays

After an early morning thunder-boomer, I hopped on my 'grannie's bike' as Bobbie calls it and headed to the Cape San Blas lighthouse. Placed in service in June 1885, it was used as a manned station until 1972 when it was automated. The US Coast Guard deactivated it as an active aid to navigation in 1996.

Cape San Blas Lighthouse

Full moon climbs are offered, unfortunately the site is closed for restoration.

Lighthouse Keepers Quarters under restoration

Cape San Blas and three other lighthouses cover a 90-mile span along the coast. The others are: Cape St. George, Crooked River and St. Marks.

As I made my way back to the cottage, I happened upon a fellow wrestling with what I am fairly sure turned out to be a Southern Stingray. These common rays are inadvertently snagged by sport fishers, angling for whitings (Gulf Kingfish) or shark, as the ray floats over the sand bottom in search of prey. A sting can be very painful, however, they are generally docile, and most stings are a result of stepping on the ray.

A surprise catch -- a Southern Stingray

This stingray was hooked near the eye. While a friend held the Stingray's whip-like tail down with a stick, this fisher very gently and very carefully removed the hook before releasing it back into the water.

Another cool day on the Cape.

KP